Just How Does A GFCI Work?
One of the most vital facets for being a home inspector is identifying safety threats. Harmful electrical practices are among the most frequent safety hazards home inspectors are going to uncover. As home inspectors, we BY NO MEANS cite code, however knowing current building codes/practices will make you a much better home inspector.
One part of the electrical inspection particularly is Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI). Depending on which state you reside in or which inspection association's standards of practice you are following, most of them address GFCI. As an example the NAHI SOP states "the inspector has to confirm the operation of GFCI if present". It also states the inspection is not required to incorporate details from any kind of source pertaining to past or current violations of codes.
1st, specifically how does a GFCI work? The GFCI has an indicator inside which recognizes changes in current to the appliance that is connected to it (for example, a toaster or blow dryer) by comparing the current flow TO the appliance and the current flow FROM the appliance. If there is a potentially hazardous drop off in the current, then the GFCI switches off all power by tripping a relay within it in less than 1 second. If a GFCI switches off your appliance, then you will need to press the reset button. A GFCI has 2 buttons: a test button and a reset button. If a GFCI turns off your appliance, then you will have to press the reset button. On a home inspection you ought to be testing every GFCI with regard to correct operation with a GFCI 3-- prong tester. Whenever installed properly, a GFCI will be able to save the homeowners' life.
Home inspectors need to remember that they are not there to cite code violations, but instead, are there to make suggestions to the customer if ever even more safety can be added or even upgraded. As an example if inspecting a bathroom in a home which was built in 1987, or for that fact 2007, and the receptacle is examined and is adequately grounded but does not have GFCI protection, it should NOT be written up as a safety risk, although the code for GFCI protection in a bathroom went into effect in 1975. Rather, this should be expressed verbally and should be written in the report as, "for additional safety, recommend GFCI protected receptacles in the bathroom." It is fine to recommend GFCI protected receptacles in areas which normally require them but do not presently have them.
Per the 2011 NEC, GFCIs are required in the following spots of the home, excluding pools, spas & boathouses.
Required to be in readily accessible locations. All bathroom receptacles. All garage and accessory building receptacles. All receptacles in unfinished basements, excluding permanently installed smoke alarm or burglar alarm systems. All outdoor receptacles, excluding GFPE circuits dedicated to non-readily accessible receptacles for snow-melting or deicing equipment. All receptacles in crawl spaces or below grade level. All receptacles serving kitchen counters. Receptacles within 6 ft. of all non-kitchen sinks. Whirlpool tubs.
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